Dreams come true: Haute Couture in Winter 2019
Enchanting, playful or a reflection of modern femininity - the Haute Couture shows for Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 showed the many facets of high tailoring art
PLAYFUL, FUNNY AND SURPRISING
Instead of a classic runway show, the Italian Giambattista Valli presented his haute couture in the style of an exhibition in a gallery this time. The scenery: a tableau vivant in which models posed between mannequins. The extravagant, downright bombastic ball robes made of pastel-colored tulle are as much fun as colorful candies.
Virginie Viard, close Lagerfeld confidante and now Chanel's front woman, presented her first haute couture collection for the French house: ankle-length bouclé coat dresses, black and white pantsuits in a relaxed silhouette and modern costumes made of glowing tweed were displayed in front of a grandiose book backdrop. A complete success!
SHE WORKS HARD FOR THE MONEY
Givenchy's creative director Clare Waight Keller once again proves how modern couture can look for a contemporary image of women: An XL men's blazer with a white lapel to the flared midi skirt, which is decorated with feathers, goes just as well with the "Black Tie" event as with the gallery opening. The same goes for the sculpturally draped jacquard top with black cigarette pants or the sixties-style coat dress à la Audrey Hepburn.
LA GRANDE BELLEZZA
At the Palatine in Rome, Silvia Venturini Fendi paid homage to her mentor Karl Lagerfeld. 54 looks - Lagerfeld was in office for just as many years - were presented at sunset in a picturesque setting in front of the Colosseum: Romantic A-line robes are adorned with colored feathers, dresses made of wafer-thin tulle are elaborately embroidered with grain and other floral motifs. As a contrast: Two-piece Seventies look in luxurious fur.
After the Trevi fountain, Fendi is now renovating the next monuments in Rome: with 2.5 million Euros, the label is restoring the temples of Venus and Roma, who formed the runway of the show.
"For haute couture to have any relevance today, it is necessary to appreciate different cultures and identities," commented Pierpaolo Piccioli on his latest collection for Valentino. The beautiful creations are decorated with folkloric elements and were presented by models of all ages between 40 and mid 70, such as Lauren Hutton, Georgina Grenville, Cecilia Chancellor and Hannelore Knuts.
The former enfant terrible of fashion is completely in its element with full concentration on haute couture. Jean Paul Gaultier creates a good mood with his dramatic and sometimes humorous designs. He plays with extreme shapes and drapes on bustier and baby doll dresses, tuxedos and oriental evening dresses. The soundtrack of the spectacle: "Push it" by Salt'n'Pepa.
Grandseigneur Giorgio Armani traditionally provides the most beautiful Red Carpet moments. Hollywood stars like Anne Hathaway, Naomi Watts and Cate Blanchett are fans of his couture dresses. The current collection also has maximum wow-look potential: the multi-layer A-line dresses in pastel colors - or optionally elegant black - oscillate between sugar-sweet and strict.
The show of Armani Privé took place at the Petit Palais.