Exclusive: Backstage at Irene Luft
It’s been 10 years since Munich-based designer Irene Luft launched her eponymous collection in 2009, and by now the celebrated craftswoman is a pro at managing the madness backstage during Berlin Fashion Week. As Irene reviews the show order and makes some last minute changes, her hair and makeup team bring her “Dark City” inspiration for her A/W 2019 collection to life. Models’ eyelids are lined in with an intensely graphic flick up and out while contact lenses tint their irises a murky shade of white and hair is slicked back, tied with thick plastic tape or teased up into skyscraping heights.
We watch from our exclusive post backstage as each hand-crafted garment is carefully unwrapped from its garment bag, revealing Irene’s vision: of a city at night and all it’s architectural and visual elements, from brocade to embody the structure of the streets to handmade flower appliques and flowing fringe to pay homage to the silent movements found in the darkness. Her colour story takes inspiration from dark shadows, golden streetlights, flashing red traffic lights and the midnight blue sky. It’s eerily beautiful and aptly timed for the season and global mood.