The different kind of suits
The perfectly fitting suit is a lifetime ambition. It is unbelievable, but true, that even men sometimes have trouble choosing their clothes and putting a perfect working outfit together. Men define themselves through their jobs and continuously have to convey competence and strength. Their work outfits are their armour…they dress for battle, every day! So, Do it Differently!
Old Rule: The suit has to fit and sit impeccably. It has to have the ideal and best cut possible with a timeless, yet classy, superiority. An individual upgrade can always be added by the choice of the shirt, the tie or even a scarf.
I don't agree, that it must never be too fashionable.
Every man should own at least one perfect suit, even better - two, ideally three!
Old Rule: Business suits should be in black, dark blue and grey. Bright or fluorescent colours should be ignored with dignity - I don't agree.
Anyway: Each suit jacket should have three pairs of matching trousers, as trousers are worn more often than the jackets. To optimize the perfectly fitting suit, the jacket has to be worn flawlessly. The jacket should be kept closed for formal occasions and only when sitting down should the buttons be opened. Suit jackets come in various styles. All should have a straight, not too tailored, fit. The shoulder seams should mark the end of the shoulder bone and the sleeves should be long enough to show off the shirt cuff and a pair of stylish cufflinks while being wide enough to enable easy movement.
The double breasted jacket can mean serious business. It is better worn by a tall, slim man. Single breasted jackets are excellent for slightly shorter men. The one buttoned jacket is the perfect suit fit for a man, who is proud of a trained and sporty figure; two buttons for a subtle, dynamic appearance and three for a very classic one. Once the ideal jacket is chosen, the correct amount of buttons must be left open. On a single breasted two buttoned jacket, the top button should remain closed. On a three buttoned one, both the top and middle buttons should be closed. The double breasted jacket always works best neatly buttoned, but when sitting, the middle one is the ideal button to be opened. Quite a few rules to abide by, but the high flying business man knows how to pull them off!
For a perfect fitting suit, the trousers also have to sit impeccably. The length of the trousers is the top criteria here. If they have a straight and classic cut, then they should fall loosely onto the back of the heel. They should never be too long and cover the heal of the shoe, otherwise this could result in the much dreaded accordion effect. Too many fabric kinks in the trousers is a serious business killer! However, trousers that are too short are actually just as bad; hairy legs or brightly coloured socks poking out are even worse…
A good fitting shirt should always be worn under the blazer. It should be slim fitting, but not tight and not too wide to avoid billowing under the blazer. Opt for a comfortable and well-structured cotton to avoid creasing. The collar shape and size is a matter of choice. It also depends on the blazer form and tie width. The collar of the shirt should fit snugly around the neck and leave enough room to breathe. For an elegant and sharp look, cuffs with stylish cufflinks can be worn. The choice of the cufflinks is a great way to accessorize and personalize the perfect suit.
The ultimate tie rule is always to go for one shade darker than the shirt. It should be tied properly, so that the peak ends at the top of the belt, not longer and certainly not shorter! The tie has to coincide with the collar shape. If the shirt has a wide, shark collar, the knot of the tie should also be larger, like the double big Windsor knot. A sportier button-down shirt doesn’t even have to be worn with a tie at all.
For the perfect suit, socks should be worn in the same colour as the suit. For a more modern interpretation and younger style, the socks can also have the colour of the shirt or even the shoes. Shoes and belts should also be the same colour and ideally made of a similar type of leather. Bespoke or hand-made shoes are an excellent choice and a great investment, as they last a lifetime. The "classic" businessman does not wear sneakers with suits - but I do!
The winner takes it all!